11/28/2023 0 Comments 1 pencil vs 2 pencilSo, I tested a bunch! I was curious to see which of our most common pencils I might recommend for writing or drawing, and if my pencil case staples were still my favorites by the end. ![]() The differences in blends of graphite and clay, along with the differences in physical attributes (erasers, sharpening, etc.) can create a lot of different writing experiences across HB pencils. They should, for all intents and purposes, be the same if it’s used as a reference point right? “H” leads stay sharper for longer under normal writing circumstances and smudge less, but will need more pressure to create any sort of darker line.Īnd at this point you’re probably like, “Alex, why does this actually matter when you're testing all HB pencils?” And that’s a fair point. In general, “B” grade leads create darker lines with less pressure, smudge more, and dull faster than harder leads. There is also “F” graded lead that falls between “H” and “HB, ” with the “F” standing for fine or fine point but in the simplest description is closest to HB. So for instance 8B is a pencil with very soft lead and will leave bold, dark lines while 8H is a very hard pencil that will create lighter writing lines. A number is usually placed before the letter to indicate how hard or soft a pencil is - the higher the number, the harder/softer your pencil will be. This is where the the lead grading system comes in! This splits pencils into “B” (or black) leads and “H” (or hard) leads, with our trusty HB (#2) in the middle. The higher ratio of graphite, the softer and darker the pencil will write, whereas, a higher ratio of clay will result in a harder and lighter pencil core. The ratio of graphite to clay in a pencil core is what makes pencils write differently from each other. ![]() The rods are left to dry and then heated at extremely high temperatures to result in a solid, smooth core. The core of pencils are actually made from a combination of graphite and clay, which is blended together with water until a solid consistency forms and then pressed into thin rods. To start, while it might be referred to as the “pencil lead” it’s important to note that there’s actually no lead in a wooden pencil. So, before I get into comparing, we’re going to do a little background into how pencils are made and a bit of Graphite Pencil 101. And most importantly, actually erase instead of just making pink streak marks. (All those who got into stationery from back to school season please raise your hand.) And I always had to get the the good ones - you probably know the ones I’m talking about - the ones that don’t break all the time or splinter in the pencil sharpener. ![]() The graphite pencil, one of the simplest writing tools and the one that was ALWAYS on my elementary and middle school shopping list. Of course these are just my findings through personal testing and preference, but I hope that it can provide some guidance in the world of wooden pencils! Graphite Pencil 101 So I really wanted to make this comparison, in part for me because I love this kind of thing, but also to shed some light on the details of pencils that you might not know! (Actually a behind the scenes is that I planned to do this comparison just for myself but never got around to it! Yes, this is totally something I’d do for fun if that says something about me!) You might be thinking, is there really a difference in types of wooden pencils? It’s just wood and graphite right? The answer is yes of course! Actually, when I started at Yoseka, I didn’t know all the small details and differences of fountain pens and inks - and when learning I related a lot to the small differences in graphite and colored pencils. You might have seen me recently on YouTube with our new series of Inside the Yoseka Team’s planners, or on insta stories with a behind the scenes of working on this post! I’ve always loved pencils - they’re what I draw in most frequently - so when the opportunity came about to make a comparison of our pencils I had to go for it.
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